SPRING IS IN THE AIR! My 2019 Glacier National Park Trip Part 3
Many Glacier, which is twenty miles north of St. Mary, is another photogenic place on the east side of Glacier National Park. Although Google Maps says it will take thirty-six minutes to reach this lovely spot, the road was listed as being very rough, and it was, so the drive was closer to an hour. But it was worth the bumpy ride, and, I decided that another visit, later in the day, would be warranted.
Two Medicine is another splendid spot to view on the eastern side of the park. While Many Glacier is to the north of St. Mary, this spectacular place is about an hour south of the St. Mary KOA where I spent the nights during my stay in the park. It’s nineteen miles from St. Mary to Kiowa and another fifteen miles, by way of MT-49, to the lake.
The trail to Running Eagle Falls is a short distance before you get to Two Medicine Lake. It is definitely worth taking the time to view this spot, a place that is sacred to the Blackfeet nation. These falls, otherwise known as Trick Falls, are actually two waterfalls in one. They were named after a famed female warrior, of the Blackfeet, who led many war parties during the 19th century. This fierce fighter began life as either Otaki or Brown Weasel Woman (sources vary) but was eventually given the honored title Pitamakan, which means Running Eagle, for her hunting skills and bravery in battle. Supposedly, French traders referred to her as the “Blackfeet Joan of Arc.”
In the spring, when snowmelt causes the river to swell, water goes over the top and through a crevasse in the rock forming two distinct waterfalls. When we first got here in October 2018, there was no water going over the top. Only during the spring, as a result of the melting snow, will there be enough water volume to see this beauty. During my previous visits to Glacier, I was never able to view the phenomenon. It’s one of the shortest, at barely half a mile, and easiest hiking trails in the park. The pathway is even handicap accessible. Mahkuyi-opuahsin, otherwise known as Rising Wolf Mountain, at 9,518 feet stands about 4,450 feet above Two Medicine Lake and looks down upon the waters from the north. It is this elevation that gazes upon Running Eagle Falls. Sinopah Peak, however, dominates the lake, rising high above the lake from the western side. This prominence is the premier vocal point of the Two Medicine area. There is a park bench near the eastern shore of the lake, from which there is a perfect vantage point to snap pictures of the lake with Sinopah in the background. I never get tired of seeing this great view. The Two Medicine Store has food for sale as well as souvenirs. It’s a great place to rest and recuperate. And if you have time, purchase a ride on the Sinopah. Taking a ride on the Two Medicine Boat Tour, can, not only, give you a nice leisurely boat ride, but save much time for those who want to take one of the nicer hikes from the far side of Many Glacier Lake.
After leaving with a plethora of photographic images from Two Medicine Lake I continued south on Montana State Highway 49 and ended at the town of East Glacier Park Village. It took about thirty minutes to travel the eleven harrowing miles over the winding, curving stretches of pavement. It’s strange but somehow it didn’t seem as bad on previous trips. At last, East Glacier finally appeared on the horizon. It is a place I fully intend to go back to someday as there are some nice gift shops in, this, the original entrance to the magnificent Glacier National Park. From here, a quarter of an hour on U.S. Highway 2 was all it took for a return to Browning. A couple of taco burgers, for lunch, from the local Taco John’s left my belly satisfied, and I was back at the KOA by around 3 PM. Having been up for almost 12 hours, I was tired, it was starting to rain, and a bed was waiting for me, so I decided to wait it out by taking a short nap.
If some of you are curious about the origins of this lake’s name, “Two Medicine” refers, according to Blackfeet tradition, to an occasion when two “medicine” or Sun Dance Lodges were erected on opposite shores of the lake.
If you look at a map of Glacier National Park, you will find that it literally drips with colorful place names that originated in Blackfeet history and culture. Other examples include Almost-a-Dog Mountain, Chief Mountain, Going-to-the-Sun Mountain, Heavy Runner Peak, Little Dog Mountain, Medicine Grizzly Lake, Pitamakan Pass (and Falls), Red Eagle Mountain, Sinopah Mountain, and White Calf Mountain to name but a few. See https://www.nps.gov/ parkhistory/online_books/glac/appa.htm.
Thanks, Doug.